Whoops! I managed to skip over a whole month or so, I blame exams and family visits :) Since my last check in we have squeezed in a few trips - our Easter roadtrip around Ireland, a visit to the Lake District with my parents, and finally a weekend in Madrid - so there's lots to catch up on!
But first, Ireland...
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My wonderful illustration to show our route |
We managed to get away to Ireland for just over a week around the Easter holidays in early April. This was the long trip that we had debated back and forth for months on - Turkey, Tanzania, and Eastern Europe were all thrown around as options. We waffled around for a bit too long and all of a sudden flights and hotels had skyrocketed, but Ireland was an excellent choice in the end and it was nice to get away somewhere without the hassle of a long flight and language barrier (I may be getting old...)
We landed in Dublin on Good Friday and headed straight to the heart of the Temple Bar area (Dublin's liveliest neighbourhood apparently.) Fun fact: bars in Ireland
aren't open on Good Friday! Despite the
quiet first night, we had a great two days in Dublin and managed to check out most of
the sights. I wasn't enamoured with Dublin – it was definitely a lot smaller
than I was expecting – but I will admit we didn't venture far from the city
centre so it might be nice to return one day and see a few of the less touristy
areas around the city.
We stayed at
the Morgan in the Temple Bar area – it was fine. If you can get the bed & breakfast at a good rate, the breakfast buffet is tasty, but expensive on its own. The hotel had a fun vibe & was definitely in the heart of the city, however, if you’re looking for a good night’s sleep our room right above the main bar area so consider yourself warned!
Our first stop on Saturday was to see the Book of Kells at
Trinity College. I thought it was absolutely not worth the wait + 10 euro entrance fee but
Trinity college itself has pretty grounds with Ivy League-style manicured lawns and old stone buildings.
We then headed over to the Guinness Storehouse in west Dublin
which was very impressive. The Storehouse has 7 stories of Guinness
history, brewing info, and fun bar spaces to try the different styles of
Guinness. It is VERY touristy and definitely doesn't take you through the actual Guinness
factory – but it was still cool to see.
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Guinness Extra Stout over a grey Dublin sky - delicious! |
Warning: if you’re planning
to go to the Storehouse on a weekend or holiday, book your tickets online ahead
of time – you get to skip most of the line if you book ahead which is definitely worth
it as we waited in line for over an hour. Also note that the line on the
outside is only about half of it – once you get inside you have to wait for
another good half an hour or so! It was still worth it, but when you’re tight
for time it’s so demoralizing when you finally get through the doors of the building and see
another thousand people still waiting in front of you! We made it though and it was an excellent excuse to sample some of the Guinness varieties ;)
Afterwards we managed to meet up with a few friends who also happened to be in Dublin and got a much more authentic Temple Bar experience on the Saturday night!
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One of the vistas from the Wicklow Way |
After a quick 36 hours in Dublin (which I think was more than
enough to be honest) we picked up our rental car and headed south to the
Wicklow Mountains to fit in some hiking before reaching Cork that night. The Wicklow area is so beautiful – and apparently where they filmed PS I Love You! – so I
would definitely recommend spending some time in this area. There is a really
good set of
trails that you can meet at any point, or do the whole 127 km over a week or so! We only hiked around for a few hours, but I would
love to go back and do a bit longer.
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The stunning view from the Wicklow Gap |
After a quick lunch at a small local restaurant, we finished the rest of the drive to our next hotel in County Cork,
Castlemartyr Resort, This place was a
bit of a (okay huge) splurge, but we really wanted this to be a relaxing
vacation so we semi-justified it (kind of... not really though...) The
resort was amazing, the rooms beautiful, etc. but I think it would be better
for a family vacation or golf trip than just a few nights away. Other than the
spa there isn't much going on at the resort itself, and you have to get in the
car to get to more interesting hiking trails – or about 30 mins into the city
of Cork.
We found a great trail in Ballycotton that I'd highly recommend - even though
it was shrouded in fog for the entire day - and had a DELICIOUS fresh seafood
lunch at the
Inn by the Harbour afterwards. The picture below doesn't adequately show the steepness of the cliff off the side of the trail plunging straight into rocky ocean below!
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Coastal trail in Ballycotton |
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Not the greatest quality picture - but how stunning would this be for a wedding reception?! ;) |
The next day we reluctantly checked out of the Castlemartyr and headed
to Gouganebarra Forest via Cork city. The city of Cork is very cute - the English Market was fun to explore for a bit - but we definitely did not give ourselves enough time to fully appreciate it. We'll just have to go back :)
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One of the colourful entrances to the English Market |
I had hoped that driving through Gouganebarra would take us a little bit off the
beaten track. It was very pretty, but in hindsight we should have probably kept going to the
Ring of Kerry - I really regret missing out on that drive! Gouganebarra was
also unusually dry for this time of year – have I mentioned it was hot and sunny
our entire trip?! - very weird for Ireland in the spring apparently. The forest itself was more of a dry
scrubby brush, but there is a cute little lake with an old church at the entrance
to the park so we weren't totally disappointed.
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Not the lush green forest we were expecting! |
After checking out Gouganebarra we headed towards Killarney. It was only a slight detour and we hoped it might give us a taste of what we were missing on the Ring of Kerry, so we
plugged it into the GPS and away we went. I should add that the roads between
Gouganebarra and Killarney are single lane dirt tracks at some points, so any time we
encountered traffic headed in the opposite direction we had to do the awkward
dance of each car trying to find somewhere to pull over and back out of the
way. It was a long and tiring drive, but we definitely got a taste for
authentic Irish road tripping!
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The views made the perilous drive more than worth it! |
The town of Killarney was quite small, but there were several local ice cream shops dotted around the high street so I was happy we made the effort to check it out :)
From the town we made our way to
Muckross House, near the entrance of Killarney National Park. The grounds were beautiful, and while we didn't go inside, the outside looked like a longer visit might be worth it! We were in a bit of a time crunch to make it to our B&B in Limerick by a reasonable time, so a quick walk around had to suffice.
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Muckross House with Killarney National Park in the background |
There is also a huge lawn and small lake which was covered in families out enjoying the spring sunshine.
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Muckross House grounds |
We left Killarney to rush to Limerick to check into our B&B for the next two nights, but I think I will leave it there for now and call this 'Part 1', Part 2 I'll cover our time around County Limerick and County Galway (my personal favourite!)
Cheers!